The german climber Simon Plum managed to climb the 1st ascent of the route named Nikita (8c) in Berdorf / Luxembourg the 13th May 2012. We are happy that finally someone was able to climb this route after a lot of climbers like for example Daniel Jung had given it many tries. We hope that Daniel and many others will succeed in repeating the route.

Here you can read Simon’s BLOG.

Here you can read a little interview we made with Simon and see some pictures of the crux passage.

climbing.lu: What do you think about the grade of Nikita?
Simon: The hardest grade in which I have done more than one route is 8b. I can say that Nikita is definetly harder but this should be obvious anyway. I almost did an 8c in Frankenjura which is called New Orleans Heavy Weight Division and is similar to Nikita in its setup. It starts off with an Fb8a boulder that leads into a 7c route. Nikita has an Fb8a section as well followed by another boulderproblem around Fb7b, divided by a decent rest. The top section is around 7c too. The single moves … (read more)

The Boulderholics Cup 2012 at CAMP 4 in Zweibrücken/Germany, sponsored by RED CHILI and many more, was a great success! There were around 230 climbers. 141 men and 49 women handed in their boulderlists. There were 50 boulderproblems to climb, 4 final boulders for the men and 4 for the women, 5 finalists for each. (www.boulderholics.de)

Here are the RESULTS showing the 10 first for each men and women:
MEN:

1. Dominik Winkler (1482 qualification points before the finals)
2. Luke Brady (982 ~)
3. Johannes Lau (772 ~)
4. Philip Ratajczak (1482 ~)
5. Martin Mayer (772 ~)
6. Jean-Marc Winckel (749 ~)
7. Johannes Hoffmann (731 ~)
8. Rene Dominik (718 ~)
9. Daniel Roth (711 ~)
10. Felix Buchmann (661 ~)

WOMEN:

1. Arnika Pidde (312 qualification points before the finals)
2. Elisa van der Wel (320 ~)
3. Florence Grünewald (270 ~)
4. Michelle Leiner (297 ~)
5. Laura Barret (259 ~)
6. Katja Krass (245 ~)
7. Amelie Gerhardt (228 ~)
8. Katharina Lubjuhn (208 ~)
9. Michelle Hartmann (208 ~)
10. Corinna Jurzok (205 ~)

Here’s a video:

Read more at boulderholics.de and see pictures on facebook!

This year’s Boulderholics Cup will take place on 17th March!

When: 17.03.2012, 11am
Where: Kletterzentrum CAMP4 Zweibrücken
What: 50 boulders between Fb 4A and Fb 8A, the 5 best ladies and men qualify for the Final. Every competitor gets a shirt. 15€ entry.

Take a peek at last year’s edition:

Sam Bié (well-known professional french photographer) has a new homepage!

Especially in the climbing scene he is known for the beautiful pictures he makes and interesting articles he writes for climbing magazines. In 2007 he made also beautiful pictures about climbing in Berdorf (Luxembourg). On this homepage you can find some in the “Berdorf” and “Route Database” sections. There are also some in the Berdorf topo.

(picture of Sam by Pierre Goerens)

Have a look at a few PICTURES about bouldering in TENERIFE / Spain!

In August 2011, Pierre went to Tenerife for a week and paid a visit to the boulder areas Arico and Arico Nuevo. Here are 7 pictures to give you an idea about what it looks like.

Tenerife is the largest and most populous island of the seven Canary Islands. It is also the most populated island of Spain. About five million tourists visit Tenerife each year! But it is not only a place for tourists lying all day on the beach and making party. There’s a lot more to see! You can do… (read more)

The 19th edition of the Ex-Haus Cup (December 2011) was a big success! There were around 140 participants. Many thanks to all of you for your support!

Many thanks to the sponsors: Kleine Fluchten Trier, Felsenkind, Jung-Ware, kletterszene.com & monkee!

Here are the results:

WOMEN – 1. Isabell Leiner, 2. Claudia Brandt, 3. Carina Scheffold, 4. Katja Grass & 5. Tamara Warken

MEN – 1. Mathias Conrad, 2. Dominik Winkler, 3. Luke Brady, 4. Nicolas Altmeier, 5. Thomas Schwender & 6. Dominik Leinenbach

See you all back for the 20th edition!

This is an interesting video about Sasha DiGiulian (Adidas team athlete), the 1st american woman to climb 9a! On October 15th 2011 she redpointed Pure Imagination (5.15d/9a) in Red River Gorge (Kentucky). Now she belongs to the very few women worldwide who managed to climb 9a.

Alizée Dufraisse from France is not far away from climbing this grade too. Yesterday, she managed to climb her 1st 8c+ in Siurana (Spain), a route of 40 meters named Pati Noso. Go on Alizée!

Yesterday, the 28th November, Daniel Woods has done the hardest flash in the world! He climbed Entlinge in Murgtal (Switzerland) on his 1st attempt!

Entlinge was put up by Fred Nicole in 2005 and has only seen a handful of repeats. It was estimated to be Fb8b+/8c. Daniel believes it to be Fb8b+. The hardest flashes so far have been done by Paul Robinson with Nagual (Fb8b) in 2007 and Adam Ondra with Confessions (Fb8b/8b+) in 2009.

Here is a video about Entlinge climbed by Bernd Zangerl who did the 2nd ascent after Fred Nicole.

Check out our NEW PICTURES about climbing in KALYMNOS / Greece in March, April and October 2011!

Kalymnos; for a climber described in one word: PARADISE! The local people used to live from their local products (sponges, goats, honey, fishing,…) but now they mainly live from the climbing tourism. It is a small, calm and beautiful island with friendly people. You have beautiful landscapes, beaches, good food, sun, the sea for diving and swimming and lots of rocks for climbing. Eric and Carole were there in August for climbing and diving (we all have a diving licence). Jean-Marc was there 3 times in 2011: end of March with Olivier, Eric, Michel, Nda, Stef and Thorsten, end of April with Pierre, Serge and Thierry and in October again with Olivier, Eric, Serge and Thierry.

Plans have already been made to go back next year. As Ryan Air have canceled some of their flights, they unfortunately canceled their flights to Kos too. One of the possibilites is to fly with Aegaeis Airlines from Frankfurt to Athen and then Athen to Kos.

After having been there 3 times you start to know… (read more)

Ein offener Brief von Markus Bock: Hallo Ihr Erstbegeher, wo ist euer Respekt geblieben?

Markus Bock möchte sich mit einer Bitte an die Kletteröffentlichkeit wenden, da in letzter Zeit eine Entwicklung im Frankenjura überhandnimmt, die nicht mehr zu akzeptieren ist und gleichzeitig nur gestoppt werden kann, wenn auch die Mehrheit der Kletterer sie so nicht akzeptiert.

Source: climbing.de